奥地利维也纳（五）之：街道 。 Vienna Austria Part (5) : Streets

这里是格拉本(Graben)大街。这里有一根鼠疫灾难纪念柱。








距离格拉本不远处，就是丁字广场(Stock-im-Eisen-Plazza)了。据说过去要到德国学制锁的学徒路过此地，都会在这里插一根铁钉，因此而得名。 这栋现代化的建筑物， 就在圣史蒂芬教堂的对面。






More about Vienna
更多维也纳的精彩文章
奥地利维也纳（一）。Vienna Austria Part 1
奥地利维也纳（二）之：可怜的莫扎特 。 Vienna Austria Part 2: Poor Mozart
奥地利维也纳（三）之：圣史蒂芬教堂 。 Vienna Austria Part 3: Stephansdom
奥地利维也纳（四）之：德梅尔糕饼店 。 Vienna Austria Part 4: Demel Konditorei

奥地利维也纳（四）之：德梅尔糕饼店 。 Vienna Austria Part 4 : Demel Konditorei

Besides music, Viennese coffee and confection are as famous as Parisian's. Hope to experience how the royal family and the ancient upper class enjoy the hi tea? You can pay a visit to the Cafe Demel, which is located at Kohlmarkt 14. The cafe is a legend, stands there for more than 100 years. Cafe Demel was royal confectioner for Habsburg royal family. Since the opening of the cafe, it attracted a lot of upper class.

除了音乐，维也纳的咖啡甜点和巴黎的可谓是不分上下。想要体验一下以前宫廷贵族如何喝咖啡和吃甜点吗？可以到这间位于菜市场大街14号的德梅尔糕饼店。德梅尔糕饼店是一个传奇， 已经有百多年了历史了。这间糕饼店过去是哈布斯堡皇室指定的御用糕饼店。自从开店以来，吸引了无数的宫廷贵族到这里。







We ordered a slice of Demel Sachertorte cake. The fact that two famous Vienna confectioners, Sacher and Demel, fought a seven-year legal battle on who had the original recipi for Sachertorte shows how serious Austrians take their cakes. Initially, Cafe Damel name their cake as "Original Sachertorte". However, later the court pronounced a judgement that the Sachertorte recipi should consists of two layers of dense, not overly sweet chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam in the middle and dark chocolate icing on the top and sides. After that, Cafe Demel changed their cake name to be "Demal Sachertorte": there is no layer of apricot jam in the middle of the cake, but directly underneath the chocolate cover, covering the entire cake. In other words: Sacher had the original recipi. However, we did not go to Cafe Sacher.


我们点了一份德梅尔萨赫蛋糕。维也纳人对甜点是很认真的。维也纳两大糕饼店：德梅尔和萨赫， 就为了争谁拥有这萨赫蛋糕的原创食谱而打了七年的官司。之前的德梅尔叫他们的萨赫蛋糕为“原创萨赫蛋糕”；不过，法庭宣判这巧克力蛋糕是有两层甜巧克力中间夹着杏子酱还有上面的巧克力片构成的。过后，德梅尔就把这蛋糕改名为 “德梅尔萨赫蛋糕”， 杏子酱不再是在两层巧克力的中间，而是在巧克力层下面，包完整个蛋糕。换句话说：萨赫咖啡馆的萨赫蛋糕才是原创的。可是，我们并没有去萨赫咖啡馆。




Original Sachertorte is sold only in Vienna and Salzberg (Mozart's hometown) and shipped to other location. Although every cookbook includes a recipi of this cake, the original is a top secret. Sacher thought that the cake itself was dry, therefore he added fresh cream. The correc way to eat the cake is: cut a small piece, dip with a little bit of fresh cream......every bite is enjoyable.

全世界只有在维也纳和萨尔斯堡（莫扎特的故乡）制作而已，其他地方卖的都是从这两个 地方运过去的。虽然市面上有萨赫蛋糕的食谱，可是真正的食谱，都还是个秘密呢。萨赫认为这蛋糕本身有点干，所以放了鲜奶油慕斯。吃的时候，就先切一小块的蛋糕，然后沾上些鲜奶油慕斯。。。。。。每一口都是享受。







Remark:
If I am not mistaken, a slice of Demel Sachertorte was about Euro4.5

后记：
如果我没记错的话，一份德梅尔萨赫蛋糕大约是4.5欧元。

To be continued ~ Vienna Austria Part 5
待续 ~ 奥地利维也纳（五）



More about Vienna
更多维也纳的精彩文章
奥地利维也纳（一）。Vienna Austria Part 1
奥地利维也纳（二）之：可怜的莫扎特 。 Vienna Austria Part 2: Poor Mozart
奥地利维也纳（三）之：圣史蒂芬教堂 。 Vienna Austria Part 3: Stephansdom

奥地利维也纳（三）之：圣史蒂芬教堂 。 Vienna Austria Part 3 : Stephansdom

Stephansdom was built over 800 years ago and the it is the second highest Gothic cathedral of the world. The Baroque chapel was built thereafter. Like the coloured roof, covered by 230,000 glazed tiles. I found similar colored roof in other places within Vienna. The cathedral looks dark......Since we saw a lot of churches in Paris and Rome, hence we did not go into Stephansdom.

这座超过800年历史的圣史蒂芬教堂，是全世界第二高的歌德式尖塔教 堂。南侧面的礼拜堂是后来增建的巴洛克式建筑：我个人最喜欢的就是那屋顶上的琉璃瓦。我在维也纳其他地方也看到很多类似的琉璃瓦屋顶。整间教堂黑黑 地。。。。。。因为我们在巴黎和罗马看教堂看到要吐了，所以我们并没有进去这教堂。








There was a "artist" selling books.
这里还有"艺人"在卖书哦。。。。。。






Romanesque Giant's Door.
罗马式的正门。





To be continued ~ Vienna Austria Part 4
待续 ~ 奥地利维也纳（四）



More about Vienna
更多维也纳的精彩文章
奥地利维也纳（一）。Vienna Austria Part 1
奥地利维也纳（二）之：可怜的莫扎特 。 Vienna Austria Part 2: Poor Mozart
奥地利维也纳（四）之：德梅尔糕饼店 。Vienna Austria Part 4: Demel Konditorei

奥地利维也纳（二）之：可怜的莫扎特 。 Vienna Austria (Part 2): Poor Mozart

We just walked here and there and finally we came to: Kartnerstrasse. Every city lay a trap for tourists. The trap is: shopping street. Kartnerstrasse is a famous shopping street in Vienna, and successfully make tourists spend like hell here. Here, you can find fine works shops, restaurants, souvenirs shops and open air coffee shops.

我们两个人就这样走啊走啊， 来到了这里：克尔特纳街( Kartnerstrasse)。每个城市，总会设个陷阱让游客坠入万劫不复的地狱， 这个陷阱就是：购物街。克尔特纳就是维也纳著名的购物街， 让游客们在这里撒下无数的外汇， 哈哈！这里有精品店、餐厅、纪念品店及露天咖啡座。




This shopping street is exactly the same as Paris's and Rome's shopping streets: They all have very spacious path for shopaholics~

这里的购物街和巴黎以及罗马的购物街一样，都是有宽敞的Kaki Lima。







Guess what, we met Mozart there! Haha! The name of the shop is "Mostly Mozart" . Besides a lot of items tagged with Mozart, there are a lot of souvenirs related to music, for example: music box ( in violin shape), mini electrical violin, music matchbox and so on. The thing that makes us ponder over and over again: Mozart Ball! In the same street, there is another branch of this shop.

我们竟然在这里看到了莫扎特！哈哈！ 这间纪念品店的名字叫“Mostly Mozart”。除了卖很多跟莫扎特挂钩的物品， 也有卖跟音乐有关的纪念品, 例如：小提琴形状的音乐盒、迷你电子小提琴，　火柴盒（有音乐的）。最让人回味无穷的，就是：莫扎特的球球 (Mozart Ball) !这间店在同一条街还有另外一家分店。






Mozart Ball, definitely is not the one that you are thinking now. It's chocolates~You see, Mozart is selling his balls to you in front of a shop. Why I saw his face as if he couldn't help but.......? Due to the economy recession, a great musician needs to work part time to sell his balls~

莫扎特球球， 不是你脑袋正在想的那个。而是：巧克力~你看，莫扎特在一间巧克力店门口向你兜售他的球球哦~为什么，我看到的，是他一脸的无奈呢？可能是经济不好，大名鼎鼎的音乐家也得抛个身出来卖自己的球球！







We felt hungry. We decided to walk into McD, because the burger was only Euro1.90. In the city of music, you even can see people playing piano in McD ( of course, it's not a real person and real piano). I was damn sure that "he" is not Mozart, simply because he does not have the "lawyer hairstyle" that Mozart has.

肚子蛮饿了。我们决定到麦当劳吃汉堡包，因为这里的汉堡包才1.90欧元而已。果然是音乐之都，连麦当劳里面都有假人在弹假钢琴~我肯定这个不是莫扎特，因为莫扎特的发型是“律师发型”。






Oh my God! Why Mozart is here and there and everywhere? I saw him selling his balls in another shop. It's really tough to earn money......

天啊！为什么莫扎特阴魂不散？他又在另外一家店里面卖自己的球球了！真的是揾食艰难啊。。。。。。






This is another branch of Mostly Mozart that I mentioned just now, in the same street.

这就是 Mostly Mozart的另外一家店， 也在同一条街。





Remark:
1) Strasse means "street". I made this conclusion because I saw every name of the streets end with "strasse". What a smart girl I am huh?
2) Every shop make use of Mozart's portrait. I wonder they pay royalty for that. How could they make use of a great musician's portrait to sell balls?
3) Mozart's hometown is not in Vienna, it's in Salzberg. Vienna is actually Beethoven's "territory". Why I did not see Beethoven selling his balls, but Mozart instead?
4) Mozart and Beethoven are not from the same batch. Mozart is Beethoven's senior. He ever praised Beethoven as a talented musician and he expected Beethoven would shine brightly in the future.
5）Do you know "Twinkle Twinkle Little Star"? Mozart ever composed this French folk song to Twelth Variations. In other words, the song repeats 12 times, each and every times will be more slightly difference in terms of: harmony, melody, rhythm, counterpoint and so on.


后记：
1）Strasse的意思应该就是“街道”。因为每条街的名字都有这个“strasse”字。我实在是太聪明了。
2）每间店都用莫扎特的肖像来做生意。我在想：他们有没有给版权费啊？堂堂一代音乐才子，竟然用人家的肖像来卖“球球”？
3) 莫扎特的老家其实不是在维也纳，而是在萨士堡(Salzberg)。维也纳其实是贝多芬的地盘，可是我就是看不到贝多芬在卖自己的“球球”，　反而是莫扎特“捞”过界来这里揾食。
４）莫扎特和贝多芬是不同年代的人。莫扎特是贝多芬的前辈，他曾经说：“贝多芬是个人才，假以时日必成大器。”
５）大家知道“小星星”这首歌吗？　莫扎特曾经把这首法国民谣(原曲的曲名为“妈妈请听我说”) 写成“十二段变奏曲”。换句话说，也就是同一首歌被重复１２次，每一次都以更丰富的面貌出现：可以是放了和声、稍微改了旋律、节奏变快／慢, 放了对位等等。


To be continued ~ Vienna Austria (Part 3)

待续～奥地利维也纳（三）。



More about Vienna
更多维也纳的精彩文章
奥地利维也纳（一）。Vienna Austria Part 1
奥地利维也纳（三）之：圣史蒂芬教堂 。 Vienna Austria Part 3: Stephansdom
奥地利维也纳（四）之：德梅尔糕饼店 。 vienna Austria Part 4: Demel Konditorei

奥地利维也纳（一） 。 Vienna Austria (Part 1)

The train was slowly leaving Venice, heading to our next destination : Vienna, Austria. Again, we had an overnight train but the only difference was: We were in the first class cabin. It was spacious and comfortable. The next day, I waked up early in the morning and I found that we were already in Austria. Mr Yap told me that the train broke down last night but I was sleeping tight. Oh my god! We only had twice overnight train (previously we took overnight train from Paris to Rome) in Europe and both broke down! In other word, the probability of the overnight train to be broken down was 100%! We were "lucky" enough!

火车缓缓地行驶出威尼斯，迈向我们的下一个目的地：奥地利维也纳。这次，我们再次坐了overnight train。我们这次是坐first class cabin，非常宽敞和舒服。第二天我很早就起来了，我们已经在奥地利境内了。叶先生说，昨晚火车又抛锚了(上一次抛锚是从巴黎去罗马的时候），当时我已经睡着了。我的天！我们坐两次overnight train， 两次都抛锚。换句话说，overnight train抛锚的机率是100%!我们也真够“幸运”的。




Well, it's over. The scenery outside were exceptionally stunning, I grabbed my video cam and recorded it.

算了，反正都已经过去了。我看到火车外的景色真的很美，马上拿出video cam录了下来。




Austria, a wonderful land: scenic mountains and rivers, and UNESCO heritages. The land had grown a lot of mighty musician: Wolfgang Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Peter Schubert and Johann Strauss. It's the holy land that every music enthusiasts dream to go.

奥地利，这片人杰地灵的土地：有着壮丽的山河、以及许多文化遗产。这片土壤，孕育了无数的音乐家如：莫扎特、贝多芬、舒伯特 以及约翰史特劳斯。这个地方，是学音乐的人所要去朝圣的地方。




Well, that was our last destination for our Europe trip, the capital of Austria: Vienna. Mr Yap had a conference there and that's how our Europe Trip started.

我们这趟欧洲游的最后一站，就是奥地利的首都：维也纳。叶先生必须到维也纳参加一个conference，所以也促成了我们这次的欧洲游。




I still remembered how excited I was, when Mr Yap invited me to go Europe together with him. The preparation for the whole trip (itinerary, Emirates air tickets, Eurorail tickets, leave application, communication with Sri, money exchange, rucksacks hunting, compass/binocular scope hunting) was done within 1 month.

我依稀记得当我知道叶先生打算邀请我跟他一起去欧洲的时候， 我是多么的雀跃。所有的行程以及准备(机票、火车票、请假、和Sri的沟通、兑换欧币、买背包、买指南针和望远镜等等），都在一个月之内办妥 。




Afterward, the waiter in the train served our breakfast. Looking through the windows, a piece of green field was spreading to infinity. I thought I was in a fairyland when I saw the cottages with chimney pots.

不久，火车内的服务人员送了早餐给我们。窗外，尽是一片片绿油油草地或麦田。一间间有烟囱的cottage然我以为自己进入了童话世界。



When we arrived at the train station, I found reddish at the back of my palms. It could be skin allergic......

当我们到达维也纳火车站时，我发现的手背上起了很多的红点。可能是皮肤敏感？




Both of us walked to the hotel which was just a stone throw away, with our heavy rucksacks. After checked in, we went out immediately,

我们两个人背着重重的背包走去酒店， 就在不远处。Check in 过后，我们就迫不及待地出去了。




Bikers are being well taken here. Can you see that? In the red light, there is a biker, with 1 of his leg on the floor to support, that means the bikers should stop.

发现这里很照顾骑脚踏车的人。看到吗？红灯内有一个骑着脚踏车的人，其中一支脚是着地的，表示脚踏车应该是停止的。







When the green light is on, you can see the bikers with both of his legs on his bike, that means bikers can go now.

绿灯的时候，骑脚踏车的人的两支脚都在脚踏车上，表示脚踏车可以行驶了。






Karlskirche, located near the Ringstrasse Surrounds. The most important Baroque building was built in 1713, by the Emperor Karl VI, to honor Karl Borromea, the patrol saint of the fight against the plague. The Baroque masterpiece was designed by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach.

我们来到了环城大道外围的卡尔教堂。这座维也纳最重要的巴洛克式建筑，建于1713年。当时的奥皇卡尔六世为了感谢鼠疫结束酬神而建的。这座建筑的设计师是埃拉什父子(Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach)。






I felt the green dome was the most special feature of the church.

我觉得最特别的地方就是那个青色的圆顶。整个绿帽高高挂哦！






There was a University of Technique (Technische Universitat) beside the Karlskirche. A lot of students were reading the chit chatting in a nearby park. The weather was extremely hot.
就在卡尔教堂的旁边，有一间科技大学（Technische Universitat)。一群群的学生在附近的公园看书和闲聊。天气热到爆。






We reached Staatsoper (Opera House). The opera house is well known in the world and top composers, conductors, performers, singers and dancers from all over the world hope to perform here as the most honorable thing in their life. The performances there never repeat because there are about 300 performances annually. Before we came, we actually planned to buy tickets to enjoy a performance there but the seats were almost full. Further more, we were lazy to bring formal clothes therefore we canceled the plan.

走着走着，我们来到了国家歌剧院。这是全世界公认第一流的歌剧院， 全世界最顶尖的作曲家、指挥家、演奏家、歌唱家和舞蹈家，都已在这里表演为毕生的荣耀。这里最特别的是：节目没有一天是重复的。 因为这里每年有将近300场的演出。我们来维也纳之前曾经上网想定购歌剧院的入门票，可是因为几乎满座了，再加上我们懒惰带formal clothes， 所以也打消了这个念头。






Remark:

1) Karlskirche open 9AM-6PM daily.
2) Admission fee is Euro4 per pax.
3) The ticket price for attending a performance in Staatsoper ranging from Euro2 - Euro178. The opera house has seating for 2880 persons and the tickets on sales a week before the performance. If you do not want to attend a performance but hope to visit the opera house, you can opt to join a guided tour there.For more details, please visit: http://www.www.wiener-staatsoper.at


后记：
1）卡尔教堂每天的开放时间是9AM-6PM。
2）入门费是每个人4欧元。
3）国家歌剧院的表演票价由2欧元到178欧元。整个歌剧院可容纳2880名观众。在表演开始前的一个星期就开始售票了。如果你不想看表演，纯粹想进去参观的话，你可以参加那边的导游团。欲知详情请游览： http://www.www.wiener-staatsoper.at




To be continued ~ Vienna Austria (Part 2)

待续~奥地利维也纳 （二）



More about Vienna
更多维也纳的精彩文章
奥地利维也纳（二）之：可怜的莫扎特 。 Vienna Austria Part 2: Poor Mozart
奥地利维也纳（三）之：圣史蒂芬教堂 。 Vienna Austria Part 3: Stephansdom
奥地利维也纳（四）之：德梅尔糕饼店 。 Vienna Austria Part 4: Demel Konditorei