意大利罗马（二）之梵蒂冈 。 Rome Italy (Part 2) : Vatican

Early in the next morning, we started up our journey excitingly to the Vatican.

第2天1早，我们带着雀跃的心情，开始了当天的旅程：梵蒂冈。




Vatican, the smallest country in the world, is just surrounded by a wall. The small city is located in Rome as well.

梵蒂冈这个世界上最小的国家，就在1个城墙之内。这个小国，也就在罗马里面。




Ever read Dan Brown's novel<<Angel and Demon>>? The novel is about Christianity and the story background took place in Rome and Vatican. By reading the novel, you can travel to Rome and Vatican, in the comfort of your arm chair. Yeah, we were there, with the hope to walk around Vatican just like Robert Langdon.

有没有读过Dan Brown的《Angel and Demon》？这本小说是有关基督教的，故事背景正是罗马和梵蒂冈。读了整本书，就好像游了罗马和梵蒂冈1圈那样。哈哈，我们也是带着1半朝圣的心情来到了这里。




We took MRT and exit at Ottaviano San Pietro station. While we were on our way walking to the Piazza San Pietro, we saw this special motorbike.

我们搭地铁到Ottaviano St Pietro站下车。下了车，后还得走1小段的路。路途中，就看到了这个特别的 三轮电单车。






Wow ~ We saw the Papal Swiss guards.

哇！看到了瑞士兵也！






Finally, we reached Vatican. This is the entrance at the right wings of the Piazza San Pietro (Saint Peter's Square).

终于，我们来到了梵蒂冈。这个就是圣彼得广场 ( Piazza San Pietro) 的右翼长廊入口。






Piazza St Pietro, with 4 columns of colonnades spreading from both left and right wings of the basilica. The colonnades was designed by Bernini. It is just like "the maternal arms of Mother Church" in Bernini's expression. On top of the colonnades were the 140 saints statues. In the photo below, shows the right wing of the colonnades. The big crowd of people was queuing to enter the basilica.

圣彼得广场的左右两旁是两道半圆形、以280根大石柱支撑的长廊。这个由贝尼尼设计的柱廊，郎从圣彼得大教堂的两旁延伸而出，贝尼尼形容它好像“母亲的双臂”。柱头上是140名圣人的雕像。相片所显示的是右翼的柱廊。可以看到多么多人排队进入圣彼得教堂。






Europe's church normally has graveyard attached. Graveyard in San Pietro basilica buried the ex - popes. Here you can see a modern design tomb, but not the tomb of the pope who just past away ~ Pope John Paul II who passed away in the year 0f 2005. The tomb of the Pope John Paul II was not opened for photo shooting. I saw many people cried in front of his tomb, and a lot of white flowers there.

欧洲的教堂里面都是有坟墓的。埋在梵蒂冈圣彼得大教堂内的，当然不是什么阿猪阿狗咯！埋在里面的，都是历届的教宗。以下这个墓碑是比较新潮的，不过不是上届的教宗。上届教宗的墓碑不许人拍照。我看到很多人在上届教宗的墓碑前哭得很激动，还有看到很多的白花。





This tomb looks old, could have about 1000 years old? On top of the coffin there was the statue of the pope.

这个看起来就把年纪了， 恐怕有整千年吧？石棺上还有教宗的雕像。






It's creepy! The coffin was standing "in" the wall.

这个才吓人。石棺是站在墙壁的！





After visiting the graveyards, we went into the basilica. What the bronze giant is? This is Baldacchino, built in year 1624, right over San Pietro's tomb. Actually, how big the bronze giant is?

拜了山（因为看了酱多石棺，感觉像跟那些教宗拜山酱），就进入圣彼得教堂的主堂内。这个东西巴闭咯！这是圣体伞 （Baldacchino)， 建于1624年，位于圣彼得坟墓的上方。这圣体伞到底有多大？






The Baldacchino consists of 4 columns with twisting shape and a capital. The Baroque construction weighed 37000KG and itis claimed as the biggest bronze in the world. Bernini was the designer of this bronze when he was 25 years old. Romans like to grab materials from other places to build something, just like what I mentioned in my Rome Italy (Part 1) that the Arch of Triumph materials was taken from other old buildings. So as to the Baldacchino. The materials was taken from the ceiling of the Pantheon.

不要以为人家的名字有个“伞”就以为人家只有雨伞那么大。人家是由4根高大20尺的螺旋形柱子，顶着1个精致的顶棚， 重达37000公斤，全世界最大的铜涛物。这个巴洛克巨无霸，是由当年才25岁的贝尼尼(Bernini)设计的。罗马人好像很喜欢拆人家的东西来建自己的东西。在上1篇的意大利罗马（一），有提到君士坦丁凯旋门的建材是取自于1些罗马老建筑物 所以在同1个门可以看到3个时代的浮雕。这个圣体伞的建材也不例外，是取自于万神殿的前廊。






In front of the Baldacchino, there was the Throne of Saint Peter (Cathedra Petri)，a chair which was often claimed to have been used by the apostle, but appears to date from the 12th century.

在圣体伞的前面就是圣彼得宝座了。这个青铜宝座是镀金的。宝座上方是於光芒四射的荣耀龛及象牙饰物的木椅，椅背上有两个小天使，手持开启天国的钥匙和教皇三重冠。传说这把木椅是圣彼得的真正御座，後经考证为加洛林国王泰查二世所赠送。






A lot of people kissed the old man's foot. Haha, this is San Pietro's bronze statue.
我发现很多人摸模和亲吻这个老人家的脚。哈哈，这个就是圣彼得的铜雕像。






Statue again? Yeah, when come to Europe, should learn how to appreciate their art. This is the Pieta, by Michaelangelo. Pieta is about the Virgin Mary cradled the dead body of Jesus.

After this status was displayed in the basilica for few days, rumors spread that the Pieta was not Michaelangelo's artwork but other people. Michaelango was mad about it. He took his tools and went to the basilica at night time and carved “MICHEL ANGELUS BONAROTUS FLORENT FACIBAT” on the chest of the Virgin Mary. This is the only pieces of Michalangelo that has his signature. However, he felt regret after that thus he decided not to sign off his artwork anymore.

Another thing: Why the statue was put behind a glass wall? In year 1972, there was a guy screamed," I AM JESUS CHRIST" and broke the nose and fingers of the Virgin Mary with a hammer. After the case, the Pieta was protected behind a glass wall.

又是雕像？没办法啦！来到欧洲，当然要附庸风雅看人家的艺术作品啦！这个是每本梵蒂冈旅游指南都会介绍的 《圣殇像》 （Pieta)， 位于圣殇礼拜堂。大家可以看到，哀伤的圣母正抱着有十字架卸下来的耶稣基督尸体。这圣殇像是米开朗基罗(Michaelangelo)的作品。

爵士又要讲古了：这雕像在圣彼得大教堂展示了几天后，有人传出作者是另有其人。米开朗基罗就赌懒到当晚马上拿家伙到圣彼得大教堂，在圣母像的胸前刻下 “MICHEL ANGELUS BONAROTUS FLORENT FACIBAT”。意思是说：来自翡冷翠的米开朗基罗做的。这是米开朗基罗所有的作品中，唯一有他签名的。过后，他觉得很后悔，也因此决定以后不再署名。

话又说回来，为什么这雕像是在玻璃墙后面呢？这是因为在1972年，有个傻佬突然间喊：“我是耶稣基督！”跟着就用锤子打烂了圣母的鼻子和手指。 过后，这圣殇像就被放在玻璃墙后了。





We were so lucky to witness a ritual in the basilica. They sang holy songs.....Later I will post the shor video.

我们也真够好彩，碰巧那天他们有做宗教仪式。我就听到了现场的的意大利圣歌哦！迟些可能会把现场的短片放上来。




Underneath the white cloud and blue sky, there the biggest church in the world stood. St Pietro Church took 176 years to complete its construction and here are the architects/designers involved: Donato Bramante, Bernato Rossellino, Antonio de Sangallo, Raphael, Michaelangelo, Bernini, Francesco Barromini, Carlo Maderno, Giacomo della Port and Domenico Fontana.

蓝天白云下的圣彼得大教堂。这是世界上最大的教堂， 共用了176年的时间完成。曾经留下痕迹的建筑大师有：Donato Bramante, Bernato Rossellino, Antonio de Sangallo, Raphael, Michaelangelo, Bernini, Francesco Barromini, Carlo Maderno, Giacomo della Porta以及 Domenico Fontana等等。






At the middle of the piazza, stood an obelisk. The obelisk was brought to Rome from Egypt by the emperor Gaius Caligula at the Middle Ages. This is the one that never fall down among all the obelisks at the Middle Ages.

在广场的正中央，是根 一柱擎天的埃及方尖碑。这个方尖碑是中世纪时由罗马皇帝Gaius Caligula 从埃及古都带回罗马的。这也是罗马所有方尖碑唯一不曾在中世纪倒下的。






The dome dominated the skyline. Well, we did not went up to the dome due to the long queue.

从右边的柱廊望过去，这大教堂看起来又是另一番风味。整个大葱圆顶占据了天空。我们并没有上去圆顶，因为排队的人真的是太多了。






If you climbed up to the dome, then you will find that the San Pietro Piazza looks like a "key hole". The photo below was downloaded from Wikipedia.

如果你有能耐上到去圆顶的话，那么你就能眺望整个圣彼得广场了。这个时候，映入眼帘的是个很大的“钥匙孔”。以下图片摘自Wikipedia。



We actually planned to visit the famous Musei Vatican (Vatican Museum)， which is just beside the piazza. Damn it, the museum was closed on that day (17 May 2007)! Harlo! Why the museum closed on different day in every month????? From the calendar below, you can see that:

There are 4 colors code (no color, blue, yellow, and green) indicating the opening time for the museum while red color means closed the whole day. For example: If you visit the museum on the days highlighted with no color, the admission time 10am-12.30PM (that means after 12.30PM the entrance will close, nobody can go in anymore) while the exit time is 1.45PM. Tips: In Italian, INGRESSO means entrance while USCITA means exit.

本想参观梵蒂冈举世闻名的博物馆，就在广场的旁边而已。岂知没有开喔(17 May 2007)！鸡蛋糕，这博物馆每个月关门的日子都不1样的。博物馆前面有个日历：

4种颜色代表不同的开放时间。红色就是整天关门。在白色的日子， 入门时间是从早上10点到下午12点半， 也就是说，过了下午12点半就不能再跟人进去里面了，因为在下午1.45分所有人都得出来，跟着博物馆就完全关了。其他其他的颜色，自己看下面的日历吧！贴示：在意大利文，INGRESSO的意思是入口/进入， USCITA的意思是出口/出去。








没有办法啦。我们和1大班鬼佬就在博物馆前面的hotdog档买hotdog吃咯。顺便拍1些街照。这个就是梵蒂冈的围墙了。

What to do? We and other tourists bought hotdogs at a stall in front of the museum, sat there and ate. I managed to snapshot some street photos. This is the wall of Vatican.





Since the museum was closed, therefore we walked down to the street, right in front of the facade of the San Pietro basilica. We saw a lot of people (I thought they were pendatang asing) was selling bags (those bags were not authentic branded bags).

反正博物馆去不成了，我们就往圣彼得的正面的街道走下去。1路上，看到很多外劳在卖包包。






We just went straight down to the street, and there we arrived at the Tevere River. This is Ponte St Angelo (St Angelo Bridge). There are 12 status of the apostles along the ponte.
一路走下去，就来到了台伯河。 这座桥就是圣天使桥。桥的两端有12尊圣人的雕像。






Opposite the ponte, there was Castello di Saint Angelo (Castle St Angelo). The castle depicts its name from the huge bronze angel on the top of the castle. The castle was Hadrian's tomb. It was then became castle, jail and papal castle. Now, it is a museum.

桥的对面就是圣天使古堡啦~这古堡的顶端有个巨大的天使铜像，因而有了酱紫的名字。这古堡本来是哈德连皇帝的陵墓， 后来在中世纪变成了城堡、监狱，也曾经作为教皇的官邸之用。现在则是博物馆。






Suggestions:
1) If you plan to visit Vatican, please go there early in the morning, in order to avoid big crowd. You will waste your time on queuing if you reach there late.
2) You should wear top with sleeves and your pants better longer than your knee level. Vatican is the head of the world Catholics churches, please show your respect.
3) You will spend the whole day in Vatican, because there are basilicas, art gallery and museum. Besides, there are tourists spots nearby.
4) I suggest you read Dan Brown's <> before you go Vatican. You will feel more exciting after you read the novel.
5) When in town, the Pope gives a mass audience on Wednesday morning. You can bring your souvevirs there to be "Kai Guang" by the pope, hahaha. By the way, you must book the free tickets in advance through the Prefecture of the Papal Household.
6) San Peter's basilica and Piazza San Pietro open 7am-7pm daily. Admission to the basilica is free. Admission Euro6 for the treasury and Euro6 for the dome.



小小建议：
1) 如果要去梵蒂冈参观，一定要早去。不然，就会浪费很多时间在排队上。
2) 还有，衣着不能暴露。毕竟，梵蒂冈是全世界天主教的老大，给点面子啦！
3) 参观梵蒂冈，得花1整天的时间，因为除了教堂，还有博物馆。附近还有1些景点呢。
4) 也建议你先去读Dan Brown的 《Angel and Demon》， 那么你就会觉得更有趣 ~
5) 星期三早上，如果教皇有在梵蒂冈的话, 梵蒂冈就会有大集会。教皇会在大集会里祝福所有的 子民。可以在星期三的时候去凑热闹， 把买了的梵蒂冈纪念品带去， 就当作是给教皇开光咯，哈哈~不过，得事先跟Prefecture of the Papal Household 订免费的入门票。
6) 圣彼得广场和大教堂每天从早上7点开放到晚上7点。大教堂免费给人参观。至于treasury， 要收6欧元。要上圆顶，得付6欧元。


To be continued . Rome Italy Part 3 : Fontana di Trevi

待续 意大利罗马（三）之许愿池


更多罗马的游记 。More about Rome：
意大利罗马（一）。 Rome Italy Part 1
意大利罗马（三）之许愿池 。 Rome Italy Part 3 : Fontana di Trevi
意大利罗马（四）之万神殿 。 Rome Italy Part 4 : Pantheon
意大利罗马（五）之拉沃纳广场 。 Rome Italy Part 5 : Piazza Navona
意大利罗马（六）之西班牙广场 。 Rome Italy Part 6 : Piazza Spagna
意大利罗马（七）之波波洛广场 。 Rome Italy Part 7 : Piazza Popolo